Mt St Helens Climbing Report - October 1st, 2010

posted Oct 12, 2010, 11:29 PM by Luke Hizer
Not much new in the climbing report, just one more month before the quota is removed. Here's the usual information, or go to the climbing conditions page to read more.

Forest Road 830 is open to Climber's Bivouac. There are restrooms but no drinking water.

May 15 thru October 31

Climbing quota is in effect with 100 climbers per day.

Please check weather and avalanche forecast before you travel into the backcountry.

Climbers should be prepared for changes in weather and trail conditions. It is recommended that climbers carry at least 3 quarts of water.

Climbers can expect fall conditions on the slopes of Mount St. Helens. Ptarmigan Trail No. 216A is snow free. Monitor Ridge is snow free but snow exists along the climbing route. Rapidly changing temperatures may result in highly variable climbing conditions.

Climbers should be prepared for extreme weather and rapidly changing conditions. Please update yourself with the latest avalanche and weather forecasts

Snow Cornices at the crater rim are unstable and could release at any time. Please stay off the cornices at the crater rim.

Glissading. Most Climbing accidents occur when climbers cannot control their speed and stop. For your safety and the safety of others, please be in control of your speed and know how to stop.

The Monitor Ridge Climbing Route is the shortest and most direct route to the summit of Mount St. Helens. Follow the Ptarmigan Trail No. 216A  to Timberline. Blue diamonds on trees will guide climbers through the forested trail. Above timberline, Monitor Ridge climbs steeply through blocky lava flows, loose pumice, and ash. Wooden route marking posts will help guide climbers to approximately 7,200 feet. Snow may cover portions of the route well into the summer.

Round Trip Distance : 9 miles

Elevation Gain : 4,600 ft

Average Round Trip Time : 7-10 hours

The Worm Flows Climbing Route is the most direct route in the winter and early spring. From Marble Mountain Sno*Park , follow Swift Ski Trail #244 to Timberline. Cross to the west side of Swift Creek, above Chocolate Falls (elevation 3,600 ft).  Follow Ridges and open slopes to the crater rim. The Worm Flows Climbing Route joins Monitor Ridge Climbing Route at approximately 7,500 ft.

Round Trip Distance  : 12 miles

Elevation Gain : 5,600 ft

Average Round Trip Time : 10 -12 hours

*Avalanche - To reduce your exposure to avalanche potential, avoid cornices, snow loaded slopes and gully bottoms. For further information please read the Backcountry Avalanche Statement for the Cascades.