Mt Hood Climbing Conditions - October 9th, 2010

posted Oct 12, 2010, 11:33 PM by Luke Hizer   [ updated Jul 29, 2011, 6:08 PM ]
Some fall information added to the climbing conditions page:

Fall climbing conditions can be dangerous and unpredictable.  Sudden storms, avalanche hazards, and high winds may make climbing conditions inadvisable and potential search and rescues impossible.  Those planning to climb should take all necessary equipment for self rescue and sustained stays on the mountain if it becomes necessary to wait out a storm.  Mountain locator units are available for rent at REI and Mt. Hood Inn.  Avalanche beacons are also advisable.  Personal locator beacons, like a SPOT device, are also an option.  Cell phones are a good idea but be advised they may not work in many locations.

Last report is from Sept 22nd:

Climbing conditions are sub-par.  The fall climbing season has arrived and weather and snow conditions can change in a matter of hours. There is a new dusting of snow on the upper reaches of the mountain. Where there is not new snow, the snow surface is dirty and sun cupped. These surfaces will negatively affect skiing and glissading.  Rock and ice fall are still present and with the return of snow, Avalanche danger is back.

There is a snow route from the Snow Cat parking lot to about 9,000 feet. You can reach the nine thousand foot level of the south side without touching snow. The Snow Cat parking is located one-quarter mile up from the main parking lot. When you leave either parking area, please use the climbers trail to the east to avoid resort operations.

From the top of the old chute route, be careful traversing towards the true summit: There is a dangerous two-foot wide section of the ridge. To one side of the ridge there is a 2,000 foot drop, to the other side is a 150 foot drop. A rope is recommended at this point.